Life in Thimphu

After two weeks our lives are getting more settled, more regular.  Weekdays I go to work and then in the afternoons we walk to town and look into shops, stores, and visit the Ambient Cafe for coffee.  After that we eat dinner at one of the many local restaurants, like Chopstick, Seasons, or Plums.

This week was the Thimphu Tsechu, the big annual festival.  Tuesday was a holiday and we went to the dances in the courtyard of the dzong, the huge fort like structure that holds government offices and a monastery.  The place was packed, everyone was wearing their best clothes, and the colorful masked dancers were amazing. 

This weekend was a three day holiday with dances daily in the large outdoor space next to the dzong.  On Saturday we went hiking above town to visit two monasteries, the latter was directly above the dzong and we could see and hear the dances clearly.  The hike up to the first monastery was steep and exposed and since it was a sunny day it was hot, but from there on it was downhill and easier.

Sunday we went to the dances, us and thousands of locals.  We were packed like sardines.  The dances were great, the costumes beautiful, and the masks terrifying., but  we were a long way from the dancers, it was very hot, and we were constantly pushed by crowds of people.  After a couple of hours we worked our way to the exit and walked downtown where the streets were closed and there were small booths everywhere, like a state fair at home.  There were games of skill, such as archery, darts,  and ball throwing, and stalls selling shoes, clothes, and handicrafts.

Monday Ugyen took us to Dochula pass where there are 108 stuppas, and from there we hiked two hours uphill through dense forests of fir and rhododendron trees to Lungchuzekhs Goenpa, a monastery with incredible views - except that the views were obscured by clouds everywhere.  Still it was a great hike, the monastery was interesting, and the monk who showed us the temple also invited us to his room for tea, which was delicious.  His room was about 9x12 feet and very simple.  We sat on a thin mattress next to a yak skin and he served us tea from an electric pot.  The stone walls two feet thick and the view from his window were to die for.  What a place to meditate.